Late November 2023 offered the perfect weather to explore the popular autumn hike near Marbella named “The Chestnut Route” (Ruta de Los Castaños), accessed via the Ronda road. The walk takes you on a 16.6km lollipop-shaped loop with 850 metres of ascent in total, and would be considered an easy-to-medium level of terrain, with some steep parts but mostly wide paths that are well signposted.
Article and images by Sophie Gatward-Wicks
The hike takes you on a journey through scenic chestnut groves, an enchanted forest and encounters with centuries-old trees as you pass through the three villages of Cartajima, Igualeja and Parauta. This walk ticks all the boxes, from autumnal vibes to amazing landscapes to Andalusian culture with a sprinkle of magic.
Though the walk can of course be enjoyed outside of the chestnut harvest season, the turning of the leaves give the landscape the added dimension of a rich amber colour gradient against a backdrop of evergreen. The slate grey mountains and benevolent blue skies can be appreciated year-round, but the festiveness of chestnuts speckling the ground alongside crunchy leaves in breeze-molded mounds is an unmatched autumnal marvel.
Other years, the chestnut tree leaves have been more obvious in their transition from lush green to burnt orange. Perhaps it is something to do with the bout of warmer weather experienced in the region throughout October and early November. This year, they seemed unsure of what stage they were at, as half of the deciduous trees remain green, as if they missed the memo, whilst the rest have completely turned to their predicted shades of orange hues, with leaves half-fallen.
Getting there
The total car journey is less than 1 hour from Marbella, along the Ronda road (A-397), turning left at the junction onto MA-7306. The drive is a few more minutes along a narrower, winding road with impressive up-close views of the almond-shaped Almola mountain ridge, leading to the quiet village of Cartajima, where you can park for free opposite the ‘welcome’ signs.
The panoramic views seen from here are: To the South, the Genal Valley and to the North, the breath-taking mountain ridges of the Serranía de Ronda.
Cartajima
Population: approx 260
Metres above sea level: 846
Start the hike from here!
One of the highest communities in the province of Málaga, sitting at the mid-way point between the Ronda road and the famous blue painted “Smurf” village of Juzcar, Cartajima is well-known for its chestnut trees which are harvested in October and November. This is the time of year you will most likely encounter pallets filled with chestnuts sitting on the roadside, and trailers used for their harvest lingering along the farmers paths.
The hike begins, walking down through the edge of the village via Calle Carril, descending towards the dry Genal River bed, first passing a 17-metre tall chestnut tree which has been standing for around 300 years! This tree is found along the road known as the Camino del Molino Real and has been a landmark and meeting place for both locals and travelers, leading to the village of Igualeja – our next stop.
Igualeja
Population: approx 1,000
Metres above sea level: 706
Conveniently situated at the source of the River Genal, making it the perfect place for a pit-stop, where you can refill your water bottle at the drinking fountain which is at the top of the first hill. The sites and sounds of the river are a restoring accompaniment for sitting and enjoying some well-deserved snacks. We can’t help but take advantage of the bench against the white-washed wall with a mosaic sign that reads “Kiss me in Igualeja’’ (Bésame en Igualeja).
Parauta
Population: approx 1,000
Metres above sea level: 706
The trail continues on for a couple of hours from Igualeja before reaching Parauta, another village where you will find a bench to kiss on! A café and cozy town square will greet you on arrival, and we recommend having a longer lunch break here, or exploring the village a little before descending towards the Genal River once again, which takes you through the Enchanted Forest (El Bosque Encantado), and back up to Cartajima, all the way back to your parking spot.
The Enchanted Forest (El Bosque Encantado)
When you arrive at Parauta, you start seeing directional signposts pointing you towards the enchanted forest. Colourful sculptures created by artist Diego Guerrero can be seen in the town centre, giving you an idea of what’s in store along the 1km stretch of forested pathway. The sculptures appear every few minutes– tree carvings of butterfly wings, wizards and story-book style wooden houses, fairies, a life-sized unicorn, and other mythical woodland creatures. Every July, Parauta holds the Enchanted Forest festival in the town center, where all the lights are turned off, left illuminated only by candlelight (about 3000 of them).
Further information and approved trails “PRA-222 Sendero Parauta – Cartajima” can be found here.
